“Often called the American Alps, in tribute to the rocky spires of prominence and resemblance to their European cousins, the North Cascades offers the rock climber and mountaineer an abundance of worthy objectives. With its access along highway 20, Washington Pass epitomizes North American alpine rock climbing, with often quality granite and moderate approaches.”

A classic, moderate route for all the right reasons. The summiting of, and traverse between, Mount Torment and Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades of Washington is hands-down my favorite two-day adventure. This objective draws many of the tricks from the alpinist’s tool bag, including a typical “Cascades-style” hiking approach, summer glacier travel, long stretches of rock climbing from exposed scrambling to low-fifth, a steep snow traverse, and a ridge top bivouac to top it off.

“With some practice on alpine climbing skills such as self-arrest, cramponing, snow anchors, and crevasse rescue, we set our sights on glaciated volcanoes and aimed the van towards the Pacific Northwest.”