Forbidden Peak via East Ridge
Words by Dave Shuey. Photos by Noémi and Dave Shuey.
A clear highlight of my 2020 season in the Cascades was the East Ridge of Forbidden Peak across 27-29 of August. Rising above the Boston Basin on the south and the Forbidden Glacier on the north to a height of 8815 feet, Forbidden Peak’s tri-pyramid shape is constructed by its North, West, and East ridges. Although less popular than the West Ridge route, with it’s “50 Classics” distinction, the East Ridge, put up by Fred Beckey and company in June of 1940, is a longer and slightly more difficult route that’s earned a spot in Fred’s “100 Favorite North American Climbs” list.
Noémi and I chose a three day, two night plan for our later season trip to the Boston Basin. Although heavier packs must be carried up the steep and shwacky approach trail, this would allow for a casual summit day without having to hike out the same day. In hindsight, it was a poor choice waiting to begin our approach hike until early afternoon as the heat poured down on us below sunny skies. Although steep and a bit overgrown, the climber’s trail is well-established and largely easy to follow. 3.6 miles and 3200 feet brings you to the higher camp at about 6300 feet elevation. This comfortable and gorgeous campsite even comes with a nearby composting toilet!
Without much concern for softening snow in our late season foray, we didn’t leave camp until 6:30am for the summit push. Bypassing snow along slabs of rock, scouted by watching the descending climbers the evening prior, allowed us to make good time to the approach gully for the east ridge. Continuing up the gully, we found ourselves near the obvious gendarme and notch that marks the start of the true ridge climb. Here we ditched some gear, including the unused crampons and axes, to be retrieved on the descent.
600 feet of impressive ridge scrambling with short sections of proper rock climbing makes up the ascent along the east ridge. The several gendarmes along the ridge, can by bypassed to their sides, but their direct up-and-over efforts should not be missed, as the movement on these rock towers is where the best physical fun lies. We would largely simul-climb until reaching the base of a tower, short-pitch up and above, and then continue simul-ing to the next; repeating this process to the summit.
The two popular descent options from the summit are down climbing and rappelling the West Ridge route, or rappelling and scrambling off the NE face for the East Ledges option. As we wanted to leave some approach gear at the base of our route, we chose the East Ledges descent with mixed feelings. The rappels to the NE off the summit were obvious, and after 3-4 30m raps, you’ll be deposited seemingly in the middle of nowhere with great exposure to the Forbidden Glacier below. Due to the exposed and insecure nature of these grassy ledges, we opted to simul-climb getting in semi-solid pieces of gear where available. Making a easterly traverse across blocks and ledges, the route finding was more or less straightforward, with our aim for a final scramble up to the obvious gendarme and notch that mark the start of the East Ridge. We managed to return to our camp just as darkness was falling, and were glad to have a tent and dinner awaiting, instead of the continued descent to the trailhead.
BETA: 27-29 August 2020. Trailhead to higher Boston Basin Camp in 4:00hr for 3.6mi and 3200ft. Camp to notch in 2:15hr for 2000ft; notch to summit via East Ridge in 5:30hr for 600+ft; summit to notch via East Ledges in 3:00hr; notch to camp descent in 1:00hr; camp to trailhead in 2:15hr. Rack: single rack of cams to 2”, few medium nuts, many slings.
