Climbing

“Often called the American Alps, in tribute to the rocky spires of prominence and resemblance to their European cousins, the North Cascades offers the rock climber and mountaineer an abundance of worthy objectives. With its access along highway 20, Washington Pass epitomizes North American alpine rock climbing, with often quality granite and moderate approaches.”

A classic, moderate route for all the right reasons. The summiting of, and traverse between, Mount Torment and Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades of Washington is hands-down my favorite two-day adventure. This objective draws many of the tricks from the alpinist’s tool bag, including a typical “Cascades-style” hiking approach, summer glacier travel, long stretches of rock climbing from exposed scrambling to low-fifth, a steep snow traverse, and a ridge top bivouac to top it off.

“We stumbled from our van at 3am, sleeping bags and camp chairs in tow. A ranger was walking down the empty road, flashlight aimed right for us. We thought he was there to tell us off for leaving our van in a national park in the middle of the night, for sleeping on the side of a road rather than paying for a legitimate campsite, for skipping showers and living off of ramen noodles and canned chili, for quitting our jobs and traveling the countryside in search of adventure and climbing, and for letting down our society with a complete disregard for its rules and expectations. Turns out he was just killing time on the night shift, looking for a wedding ring someone had lost out a car window. A needle in a haystack. We wished him good luck and made our way to Camp 4.”

“On a five minute stroll down its main street, you’ll pass by trail runners in bright lycra tights, well dressed couples window shopping, and alpinists just off the peaks, tromping down the street with full packs. I think that is part of why I love this city so much. Fancy-pants Chanel wearing ladies and ice ax toting dirtbags can be seen sitting on nearby benches and nobody seems to think this combination odd.”