Mt Baker via Coleman-Deming
Words and photos by Dave Shuey.
18 May 2019
If there was ever a route to bring skis on a volcano in May, this would be that route. Alas, having made the decision to leave our skis back in Colorado for the summer season, this would be a boot up and boot down type of day. With my buddy Patrick, we left the cars at 4:20am for an in-a-day ascent of the Coleman-Deming route.
The Heliotrope Ridge trailhead at 3700’ was free of snow, as was the trail for the first hour or so of hiking, allowing us to make good time to timberline. All those with skis had them strapped to their packs for this initial hike, and I was glad at this point to be free of that extra weight. At timberline and snow line, we donned crampons and continued up firm snow slopes as the views around began opening up above the trees. The sun was just beginning to rise from the ridgeline to our left, with an orange glow blanketing the undulating slopes. A tormented icefall of the lower Coleman glacier below and left of us offered an impressive sight of destruction and force.
At just over 6000’, about two hours in, we crested the final snow slope where the glacier’s reach extends, and little mountaineering tents were scattered in groups. We roped up and continued one before the other up the right side of the Coleman. Even for a lower than average snow year, Baker was well covered, and the snow bridges spanning the depressions where crevasses lay were hard and confidence inspiring. There was very little fear for skiers coming down this unroped later in the morning.
Out in front, I set a conservative but steady pace, and negotiated the route before us. Navigating was quite straight-forward and required little thought; just one foot in front of the other, matched to my breath. At just over 9000’, you reach the saddle between Baker and Colfax Peak (Black Butte), and the route tips back for the final 1700’ to the summit crater. It was here that the previous 5000’ of hiking caught up to me. My pace slowed, but we kept up a consistent slog amongst several other climbers, most with skis on their backs. The snow surface was generally firm, and we trucked up the Roman Wall in steps left by others. The wind blowing into our faces was consistent, but never overly strong, while the sun shined down upon us.
Cresting over the top of the slope and onto the summit crater was a welcomed moment. A climber that had reached here just before us was flying a kite(!), and there were smiles all around! The true summit of Baker is Grant’s Peak just on the far side of the flat and wind smoothed crater. A short walk brought us there, we high fived, took in the views, and savored the success of our efforts.
Although not jealous of all the skiers having to carry their gear on their backs for much of the climb, we now wished we had them for the descent. The snow surface conditions were perfect and the skiing appeared routine. 7200’ had to be reversed regardless, and we set off back down the slope by foot. Glissading down passed the glacier’s edge helped eliminate the need to hike around 1000’ of descent and is always a fun ride. With wet butts we reached timberline and the dry trail just below. Beers and some celebratory bourbon, and we called it a day well spent.
It was no speed ascent, but at 7:30h from car to summit and 11:15h round trip for a 12 mile, +/- 7200’ push, I was pleased with our effort for my first alpine route of the season. Both the North Ridge and Coleman Headwall routes on the north side of the peak looked fantastic, and I’ll be back soon for subsequent attempts.
