My Glacier Travel Kit

Either as guide or recreationalist, this is the standard technical kit I take when traveling on a glacier with significant crevasse hazard. Our goal is a light-weight and minimal rack, while covering all requisite items needed for rescue and belay tasks.

Rack

  • 1 triple-action, locking carabiner (ex: BD Gridlock Magnetron)

  • 2 free “HMS-style” locking carabiners (ex: Petzl Attache)

  • belay device + locking carabiner (ex: Petzl Reverso + Petzl

  • progress capture pulley (ex: Petzl Traxion) + non-locking carabiner

  • 2 rope grabs (ex: 1 Sterling Hollow-block and 1 Petzl Tibloc)

  • triple-length sling + non-locking carabiner

  • cordelette (ex: ~15-20ft Sterling 5.5mm PowerCord) + non-locking carabiner

  • shoulder-length sling + rappel link + tiny knife: all on one small locking carabiner

Rope, Harness, and Sharp Bits

  • “single-rated” or “half-rated” rope

  • light mountaineering harness

  • climbing helmet

  • ice axe

  • boot crampons (often aluminum)

  • optional, based on conditions:

    • picket(s) + mid-clip cable + locking carabiner

    • ice screw(s)

    • 2nd ice axe w/ hammer attachment